In a world of mass-produced shoes, true craftsmanship is a rare thing. It requires a genuine sense of care and custodianship that is visible and present at each production stage.
Years of practice have honed the skills of these artisans, who understand that perfection lies in the most minor details. This exceptional artistry allows for artistic expression, resulting in pieces that leave an undeniable mark on the world.
Design
Shoemaking has evolved into a highly specialized craft, with each step in the process requiring skill and expertise. The design is the first essential step in shoe making, followed by stamping, sewing, assembling, and finishing.
The materials used are another vital aspect of shoemaking. They help create shoes that are durable and comfortable to wear, mainly made from leather. The high-quality leather is also soft and flexible, allowing the shoes to shape the foot as worn over time.
Typically, a shoe designer will develop the design of a shoe but then pass this responsibility to a Cordwainer who will bring the shoe to fruition. It enables the designer to concentrate on developing fresh designs and trends.
Materials
A shoemaker’s craftsmanship is only as good as the materials they use. Luxury shoe brands only work with the best materials and produce shoes designed to last and are comfortable for years. These specialized materials ensure the shoe’s design and aesthetic integrity, from genuine leather to exotic skins.
Shoe factories use sophisticated technology to streamline the process of creating a shoe. These machines assist in designing, pattern making, clicking (or cutting the material), and sewing and assembling.
While the shoe designer develops the concept of a shoe, the Cordwainer brings it to fruition using new leather. In addition to the quality of the material, the cutting techniques are another critical aspect of the shoe’s construction.
Cutting
In the world of luxury shoes, style meets craftsmanship; each pair of shoes results from meticulous attention to detail and labor of love.
Whether it’s a Blake stitch or a Goodyear Welt, the stitching techniques used on leather footwear ensure that all shoe components are securely attached. These techniques are what set quality leather shoes apart from the rest.
After the shoe is stitched together, it’s sent to the Finisher, who will polish and shape the sole and heel edges. That is critical because it’s the only way to achieve a polished and seamless look. It’s also what separates a luxury shoe from a fashion shoe. It is where an experienced eye and a sensitive touch are crucial.
Stitching
Once the patterns and prototypes have been created, the leather components are stitched together using various techniques. It ensures that the shoe pieces are securely attached and creates long-lasting, durable footwear.
Lastly, the edges of the shoes are finished using various techniques, including sanding, buffing, and burnishing. It gives the shoes a unique and luxurious appearance. Many styles use the bespoke shoemaking technique of hand burnishing, which involves applying colored wax to a mop and working it into specific leather areas for an antiqued look.
The leather parts are then stamped with corresponding labels and features (for example, where eyelets should be punched and perforated accents). It is done to ensure clarity during the sewing phase later on.
Finishing
After the last is molded, white glue is applied, and the leather layers are glued together with the stiffeners sandwiched in between. The edges of the shoe are then smoothed with a fine piece of sandpaper to remove any remaining marks. It is a step that fast fashion brands would skip to save money, but it’s one of the things that sets a luxury shoe apart from an average pair.
The shoe is designed to last long and has a timeless style. Crafting a prototype is the best way to start shoe-making, giving you invaluable hands-on experience. After that, it’s just a matter of gradually working up to more advanced shoe constructions and building your confidence and skill.
